To Create a More Balanced View

When I've written about the special nature of our liveaboard life, I'm not providing the full picture of all that's involved. Given the few challenges I've worked through in recent days, I feel compelled to fill in some of the missing pieces.

It's not difficult to fill in some of our time here in the harbor by repairing and replacing equipment on the boat that has broken down as a result of our travels. Although boats are designed and built for the marine environment, it can be a challenge to keep it all working.

We bought this boat new and moved aboard thirteen years ago this month. Buying new meant that we could avoid, in the short term at least, many of the challenges faced by those who buy a used boat. But by now – thirteen years later – we can no longer depend on everything working without breakdowns.

Here is a list of what I've worked on since we left Virginia in late October: The auto pilot motor burned out on the trip down. It's a valuable asset, particularly for the overnight ocean passages, so we had to buy and install a whole new unit. I couldn't get replacement parts, since the company no longer makes the same unit. The VHF radio wireless microphone began to show signs of not working, encouraging me to upgrade with a radio that also includes AIS. (More on this function perhaps in a later blog.) The new radio is now installed complete with connection to our GPS. My SSB/HAM radio for long distance communications was also not functioning as it should. Fortunately I was able to solve its problems without too much effort. I got it running again after talking with other HAMs (amateur radio operators). After having issues with the batteries we depend on for all our electrical equipment along with our lights and water pump, I bought a battery monitor to help me evaluate them on an ongoing basis. Ultimately, I was forced to replace two of the four batteries. Of course, these were five years old, so I didn't feel too bad about having to replace them. Others suggested that batteries generally last less than four years.

I've also had issues with the head which are now resolved. (For you landlubbers, that's the toilet.) The hot water heater began to leak, so I had to take it out and replace it with a new one. By the way, during our time in Boot Key Harbor on the mooring, we don't have hot water. I knew we'd not need the heater for some time yet, but we couldn't have it leaking constantly.

Then there's the outboard motor for our dinghy that has been a periodic nightmare for the four years we've owned it. After taking the carburetor apart several times and replacing different pieces in an attempt to resolve its current issues, I finally traded it in for a new one.

My situation isn't unique. Other boaters I've talked with are tackling similar challenges as well, although this has been a particularly troublesome time for me. The marine environment is tough on all sorts of equipment. You may have noticed that I didn't mention calling in a mechanic, a plumber or electrician as a part of these repairs or replacements. Because cruisers are often in areas where such expertise is either unavailable or way too expensive, they learn to do as much of their own work as they can. This is also an example of where the boating community is important. In places like Boot Key Harbor where many boaters gather, there is usually someone nearby who has successfully tackled the problems others may be facing for the first time. One of the benefits of the daily radio net is that it makes it easier for those in need to find help. In some ways our situation can be compared to settlers in a new territory working together to build homes and tackle other challenges. I did break down and call in a mechanic to look at the outboard at one point before I traded it in. Otherwise I tackled each project myself, making a few calls to tech support when things got over my head or the installation guide was unclear. A friendly boater also helped at one point.

In addition to saving a good deal of money by doing these repairs/replacements myself, I also gained satisfaction in completing each myself. Whenever a new challenge arises, Sandra will tell you that my response is, “It's not rocket science.” I should therefore be able to successfully overcome this new challenge, and if not on my own or from reading one of several manuals I have on the boat, then I may be able to find another boater who can assist in overcoming whatever I face. The bottom line for all this is the fact that the boating life is challenging, but the cruising community is so strong in many areas that it balances out the challenges and allows us still to love the experience.

So Carpe Diem!

Captain Bob

Anchoring - An Important Element in the Romantic Cruising Life

I've been singing the praises of our primary anchor for some time now in spite of all the authoritative reports which state that no single anchor works well in all situations. Most work well in mud; some work well in sand, but many do not work well in rocky conditions or in areas where the bottom is thick with grass or kelp. We'd had such good luck with our Manson Supreme that we thought it was an exception to the rule...until yesterday.

We'd left the harbor with plans to head out into Florida Bay for a few days of peace and quiet by a lonely mangrove island. Our intention was to go to Coconut Key, an island we'd been to a couple of times recently and really enjoyed. However, as we approached the island, we noted that someone else was anchored there, possibly for the same reason we had chosen it. So we changed course to East Bahia Honda Key with the plan of moving over to Coconut Key in a day or so.

We anchored with little difficulty and then went in for a swim. As is my usual custom, I swam out to check on the anchor and noted that it wasn't dug in as much as I like. But I'd seen that situation on a couple of occasions in the Bahamas last year with no ill effects. As the day wore on, the wind increased a bit and was gusting in the 18-20 kt range. Still no problem. I'd set our anchor alarm as I always do, and it was nice and quiet.

As we began to watch a movie sometime near 8:30 PM, however, the alarm sounded. I checked and could see that we were indeed dragging. What a pain to have to deal with this in the dark in the shallows with the wind blowing as it was near 20 kts. We got the engine going and brought up the anchor and moved into better protection from the island, since the wind was now coming from a different direction than predicted.

Well, after three attempts and lots of frustration, we finally got it set – sort of. It seemed that the bottom, having lots of grass, was sandy down a few inches and then hard coral under that, so the anchor just wasn't easily secured. I'd heard that some found that dropping the anchor and setting gently and leaving for a while sometimes works better than backing down on it with force. I tried that approach and then crossed my fingers. I stayed in the cockpit for the next couple of hours to watch our GPS as it showed our position. No dragging. I finally went to bed after midnight, not a happy camper. I got up during the night a couple of times to check again, just in case the alarm wasn't working. All seemed to be fine.

As I write this, it's another beautiful day in the Keys, but somehow this spot no longer holds such appeal. The boat at Coconut Key has moved on, so we'll be sailing over there and diving in to check very carefully how well the anchor is set before we relax.

Oh yes, the Manson Supreme is a really good anchor, but it's not the perfect anchor for all occasions. There...I've said it. I've officially changed my tune.

Happy sailing and secure anchoring,

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

Morning Net Helps Us Begin Our Day

                                

                                                       This group of pelicans have their own "net."

One unusual aspect of living on a boat in Boot Key Harbor is that we can benefit from a daily “radio net”. For any non-boaters reading this, let me first explain that everyone who travels by boat has at least one radio aboard – one called a VHF radio This is a two-way radio that allows boaters to communicate with one another relative to safety issues, information or merely to share a greeting. We can contact bridge tenders on the ICW to let it be known that we seek an opening. Radios also are used to contact marinas when seeking a slip, a mooring or needing to get fuel. In an emergency, they are used to contact the Coast Guard. Specific stations broadcast weather information continually

24-7. And because it is a radio and not a telephone, anyone listening on the same channel will hear the conversation.

In Boot Key Harbor each morning at 9AM, boaters can tune to channel 68 for the “cruisers net”. It's like a daily gathering of boaters, but we can all enjoy our morning coffee in our PJs on our own boats while we “meet” on the radio. New boats are welcomed; those planning to leave say their good-byes; boaters with problems with their engines, their refrigerators or computers seek and often get help. Activities in the community are promoted as well. We learned about the annual health fair at the hospital and the seafood festival on the morning net. We heard that Relay for Life for cancer could gain funding if they got enough cruisers to volunteer to help at the festival, so we joined about 30 other volunteers and really enjoyed the festival. And speaking of volunteers, a group of seven volunteers work at leading the net each morning – a different one for each day of the week.

Social gatherings are announced regularly. Ham operators get together for lunch once a week as do members of the Seven Seas Cruising Association. Those planning to head over to the Bahamas get together to form plans and compare notes on weather reports to know when it might be safe to cross the Gulf Stream.

On a typical morning, a boater will check in looking for a ride to Miami, and someone else will come on in response saying that he is headed that way tomorrow and has room for an extra passenger. Another has just installed a radar unit and doesn't know too much about how it works. In response, another boater with the same brand offers to come over to provide some tutoring. Someone else just installed a new radio and wants to sell the old one at a great price. A potential buyer was on the radio next seeking a meeting with the seller.

In each of these cases, the two who connected on the radio had probably never met in person, but now they will. This net provides a great way to maximize the resources and knowledge of all the boaters in the harbor without anyone feeling awkward about seeking or offering help. Additionally, it appears to set a tone in Marathon of friendliness and helpfulness that shows up in other settings here.

Now if there was a way to translate this morning net to other settings. What are the chances that you could convince your neighbors to all get VHF radios to start such a net? OK, perhaps the cruising life is pretty unique.

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

But There Are Moments...

Living aboard a boat in Marathon for the winter is not without its challenges and extra work. For instance, when we need to go to the store, we don't just walk into the garage to get into the car and go. We first must get into the dinghy and head to the dock. Then we can get to a car (We have one here for the first time this year) or a bike, or we can walk the mile to the store. Most boaters here have a bike to get there, but many do walk. Of course the dinghy ride is also required for laundry, for showers and to check the mail.

Then there's the issue of water on the boat. I take several dinghy trips a week to fill up 6 gal. jugs to bring back and dump into our water tanks. This allows us to wash dishes, and wash ourselves. When we fill our solar shower bag in the morning, by afternoon we can take a shower on the boat and save the trip to shore. The solar shower bag allows the sun to heat the water. Otherwise we have no hot water while we're on our mooring.

These are a few of the compromises we make in order to be here in the warm weather for the winter. We really enjoy the good weather, and that provides enough compensation for the extra work of normal life. But there are moments when we are genuinely blessed with an experience that makes our lifestyle so much more than mere compromise. Last night I experienced one such moment.

We had left the harbor and traveled up into Florida Bay and anchored by a small mangrove island. We've made several similar trips during our stay here. We like getting away from all the activity and people for a brief time to enjoy the solitude we experience up in the Bay. People just don't boat up into the Bay much. We anchor by an island and find ourselves totally alone...except for the fish below and the birds above.

Yesterday was another beautiful day in the Keys – bright sun, few clouds and temps in the 70s. After dark we went out to see the stars. When you're several miles from the closest town and have only low lying mangrove islands to inhibit your view, you find really big sky like in Wyoming or Montana. The stars are bright and plentiful. It was a great view. Then we went to bed for the night.

Sometime after 1:00 in the morning I awoke and decided to check on our anchor. We keep our GPS on with an anchor alarm, but I like to check things out during the night just to assure myself that our anchor is still holding us in place. I went out on deck and immediately noticed that the stars were even brighter and more numerous than earlier. I wondered how surprised most people would be if they could get to a spot like this to see how many stars are actually out there on a clear night. I looked around enjoying the peace and quiet of the late night moment. Then I heard a noise in the quiet stillness of the night and knew immediately that it was a dolphin coming up for air. I couldn't see it but recognized the sound. Then again – there it was. We hadn't seen any dolphins here during the day, but now we had a visitor who was swimming around the boat. It had to be close, since I could hear it breathing. Was it to check us out? No way of knowing. But it was a special moment with the stars and the soft breathing of the dolphin – one that I'll cherish and wish to be able to share. Few people get to experience such moments as this. And it such moments that make our lifestyle so special.

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

Marathon - A Crossroads for Many

While Marathon seems to be a destination for many snowbirds, it is also merely a planned stop on the way to another location for many. The city marina has a “Buddy Board” posted where those who are heading to other destinations and seek some company can post their name or check to see if others are heading their way. This isn't for purely social reasons. Traveling by boat includes some danger and risks. The risk can be reduced if there are others traveling with you who could provide assistance if, for instance, your engine quit or you planned poorly on fuel and you ran out before reaching a source for refueling. Going into areas with shallow water can be tricky, but having another boat to assist if you run aground is also reassuring.

So I've checked on the Buddy Board from time to time to see where people are heading next. A number are heading to the West Coast of Florida, down to Key West or perhaps up to Miami and north. Most, however, seem to be heading to The Bahamas. This destination has several attractions: it's a foreign country a relatively short distance from the US; it offers really clear, warm water for snorkeling or diving; it also offers some beautiful beaches and scenic stops which we enjoyed last year for the first time.

                                         On a quiet beach in The Bahamas

But as close as it is, getting there can be a bit tricky. One must sail across the Gulf Stream. During the winter, fronts coming off North America often produce strong winds out of the north. Since the Gulf Stream flows in a northerly direction, these winds can produce large, dangerous seas. Therefore it is generally agreed that one does not proceed to The Bahamas when the winds have a northerly component. So wait for a calm day, you suggest. Actually, it's best to wait for a calm “weather window” of a few days. Many will leave Marathon and travel up the Keys on the first day and then jump off to cross the “Stream” on the second day. And then one must arrive at a port where one can check in with customs. While this can mean only a day trip to Bimini, it could also mean an overnight sail to some other port. It would be best to arrive when the sun is high, so the shallow channels can be negotiated safely. Navigational aids in The Bahamas are scarce and unreliable. The charts can never be one's sole source for such information, so one must be careful. Fortunately the water is so clear that the bottom is visible, and one can negotiate the shallower areas as long as the sun is high enough to minimize reflections.

As a result of all these challenges one must in getting to The Bahamas, many boaters end up waiting for one to three weeks or more for just the right weather window. While they are waiting, they often gather with several others with similar goals and work out joint plans for travel. The rest of the boaters hear about these meetings on the morning radio net when such a gatherings are organized.

While The Bahamas is the destination most are heading to at some point, others are working their way down to Cuba. Of course most US citizens know that this country is off limits for us. Not so for the rest of the world. Many of the boats here are from Canada with a sprinkling from Europe or even Australia. For all of these boaters, Cuba is an attractive destination only 90 miles south of Key West. The rest of us hope for a change in policy, so we too can explore our neighbor to the south. For that reason and others, one of the offerings here for boaters is a Spanish class specifically for cruisers (Perhaps I'll share some thoughts about this class in another blog.)

There's one more group among the boaters who come with plans to stay a short time before moving on. A few of these like it so much they never leave. We've met a few of them who talk about having come for a week...five years ago. Marathon can grow on you.

The result of all this is a great mix of cruisers who gather here for at least part of the winter. Such a mix provides for interesting perspectives on life which can be shared. It makes for a richer community here in Marathon for all of us spend time here.

What Great Neighbors We Have!

One aspect of cruising on a boat is the fact that we live in closer awareness of the life around us. Not only human life but also other forms of animal as well as plant life. I realize that viewing natural surroundings with evidence of the animal life is not unique to boating, but it's always there just outside our “home.” I'll offer a few examples from our current circumstances here in Boot Key Harbor.
Last night after dark I happened to be sitting in the cockpit when I heard a slapping noise in the water not far from the boat. After hearing several slaps, I realized that it was a dolphin. In fact there were several of them around the boat. It appeared that they were corralling fish for an evening meal. Earlier in the evening several pelicans were catching their supper by diving into the water to catch some fish, a regular activity for them here in the harbor. In the shallows nearby, I could see herons and egrets stabbing fish as well. I also saw a stingray jump out of the water in the afternoon. Earlier in the week while walking along the dinghy dock, Sandra was surprised when she spotted a moray eel swimming among the rocks. And our neighbors have also seen manatees in the harbor.
During our recent travels out to quiet anchorages in Florida Bay, we've seen lots of birds – sea gulls, osprey, herons, frigate birds, king fishers and cormorants among others. We also witnessed several tarpon - large fish 3-4 feet long - jumping out of the water. (They are known for doing this.)
We don't go off into the wilderness to see all these animals. They are all seen within close proximity to people, and they are doing what they do seemingly without noticing or being impacted by us. Of course that is my initial reaction, a rather naive impression as it turns out. Our living in such close proximity to our natural surroundings provides us with countless examples of our impact. During our trip south this year, we came upon a dolphin that was struggling with a serious gash still bleeding, undoubtedly due to a propeller strike. Even though they enjoy playing with the bow wave of boats, dolphin tend to be fast swimmers, so this probably happens infrequently. But the manatee, a much slower swimmer, is currently endangered in part due to being struck by boats. Whenever one sees a manatee, it is likely that scars from such strikes will be visible.
Here in the Keys, the impacts to the sensitive environment can be significant, and the small land area can easily be completely overtaken by development. A tour of the Keys will show ample evidence of canals dug and shorelines changed, beaches created at resorts, and non-native species of plants and animals being introduced – all of which can produce serious negative consequences. These impact everything from bird nesting sites to sea turtle egg laying on beach areas. The ground and shoreline area water pollution potential is huge. And the introduction of non-native plants and animals upsets the balance of the natural community.
What we find encouraging is that the dolphin are here feeding on the fish which live here, as do the pelicans and herons. The city marina provides pump-out service for all boaters each week at no extra charge. They even have a boat that comes to us. This has made an important difference to the quality of water in the harbor as evidenced by the fish and birds that appear to thrive here. The city marina provides moorings, so boaters don't have to anchor. This provides a safer harbor but also limits the damage to the plants that live on the bottom, providing a quality habitat for animal life here. Many areas within the Keys are protected from development and over use. And there are a number of other measures undertaken here to protect the ecosystem of the Keys.
While this is a small area with no major cities, it does provide an example of what can be done when when the local communities and the state work together to protect our fragile environment. The birds, the fish and the dolphin all seem to appreciate the result, as do all of us, the boaters who can daily witness the results of those efforts.