Sunday, December 2, 2012

South Florida is Full of Interesting Contrasts



Since we left Vero Beach, we've managed to gain some pretty significantly contrasting perspectives on this part of the country. We spent our first day heading south to an anchorage called Peck Lake. It's not really a lake – just a wide spot in the Indian River which the ICW follows. On shore at Peck Lake is a state park with a beautiful, empty beach just a few short steps away. The ocean water was warm and tropical in color. Maddie had a great time at the beach. We had it all to ourselves.
The beach we had to ourselves at Peck Lake
Sunrise at Peck Lake - with two or three other boats at anchor - very quiet!

The next day we continued south to Lake Worth and West Palm Beach where my sister Mary Jo and family live. We spent most of the next day with them and had a great visit, meeting Amelia, her youngest grandchild. Her husband Scott picked us up from the WPB city docks and took us home to see Toby, Jill and Peter. She took us to see the new movie Lincoln which we thoroughly enjoyed.

The next day, it was off through “the canyon” and on to Lake Sylvia, another non-lake, this one in Ft. Lauderdale. And then we continued on to Miami Beach to an anchorage near South Beach. This portion of the trip we find to be quite interesting. In past years we'd tried hard to avoid this stretch, since there are more than 30 bridges that must open for us to make the passage. Most are on a schedule that we can just make if all goes well. But it doesn't. On this occasion we made it to all but two of them at the appointed time. At the the other two, we were forced to hang around for nearly a half hour for the next opening. That's always great fun with the winds, which were strong, and the tidal current both do their best to run us into the bridge or at least out of the channel where we could run aground. As an added bonus, as I mentioned above, part of this stretch is called “the canyon.” That's because the ICW is narrow here with concrete or rocky shorelines which allow the wakes of passing boats to bounce back and forth across the waterway for several minutes after the boat passes. Through most of this stretch boats aren't supposed to be creating large wakes, but some are in a hurry and others just don't care. For us it means constant motion as we travel down what should be a smooth section of water. Fortunately this didn't impact us much of the day, since we seemed to be alone on the Waterway.
Busy and often a bit confusing in Miami - lots of people living here!

The peaceful setting at No Name, the contrast is so obvious!

As stated in the beginning of an earlier paragraph, we find this portion of the trip of great interest. The contrasts are dramatic. We left the solitude of Peck Lake and passed through a stretch down to the Palm Beach area with the ICW and offshooting canals to be filled with expensive homes, many of which would be considered mansions by us humble folk. Frequently their 100+ foot yacht is parked at the dock in front. And these homes were packed in with little or no land between them. No sign of middle America here. Of course not everyone could live in these homes. So many are living in highrise condos that line the beach and the ICW from North Palm Beach to Miami. Their height was often in the 10 -25 story range, and they must have numbered in the hundreds. There are just so many people here with money. Little sign of a economic downturn.

Before we arrived at our anchorage by the WPB city docks, we passed by one marina and boat yard that was packed with huge yachts. It appeared that the minimum length was over 100 feet with some approaching 200 feet. And there were so many of them all in one place.

The evidence of wealth continued with few breaks all the way to Miami. As we entered Ft. Lauderdale, we noticed a sign welcoming us to the Yachting capital of the world. What we've seen of this “Gold Coast” of Florida certainly did nothing to make us believe otherwise. Every couple of miles at least there was another marina with many large power yachts and a few smaller ones.
The daily scene at the port of Miami

From the Waterway, it appeared that Ft. Lauderdale and Miami were built around the canals, and one could carry on most of the needed day-to-day activities by boat. We saw lots of areas where one could tie up and go to restaurants or shopping. There were a few places where the Waterway paralleled the street. From our boat's cockpit, it seemed as though the street was at a lower level than us. I can't imagine what a damage a five foot storm surge here would cause. And if the glaciers are melting and the ocean level is rising, the city leaders had better start considering what should be done. The city appears to be tied so closely to the water and dependent on it for economic health. And yet this whole stretch of coastline is dependent on water levels remaining as they are.

We'll shortly leave this fascinating part of the country for another that is equally fascinating in very different ways.

So until the next entry from the Conch Republic, Carpe Diem.

Captain Bob

1 comment:

  1. Maybe you should trawl a metal detector as you traverse this Gold Coast; looking for loose change. Thanks for the update; hoping the journey continues well.

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